If there are many options to discover Madagascar, you can imagine a trip to the south, after having followed the RN7, this mythical and spectacular road that runs from the capital Antananarivo to Tulear in the southwest. On the way, breathtaking parks and the possibility of then reaching the wild beaches of Ifaty Bay for countless idleness sessions and dream dives in the lagoon. For a smooth end to your stay!
An exceptional and popular national park
After crossing the beautiful green and red stretches of the Horombe plateau, where the fine silhouettes of the Medemia palm trees extend their long shadows at sunset, the RN7 takes us to Ranohira. Here the plain ravines and the relief takes on a tormented air. The Isalo is approaching. Incredible western landscape, this massif seems to come from science fiction with its amazing shapes. Bathed in deep silence, the limestone walls of this immense ruinous massif are like a ghost town in the middle of the desert.
The superb Isalo National Park (81,540 ha), the most visited in the country, appears, stretching west of Ranohira, in the Ihorombe region. You could easily spend two, three or even four days there to immerse yourself in this exceptional nature. Thus, we will be able to admire at leisure the rising sun and the formidable fires of the twilight on an almost lunar landscape... The Isalo offers a series of canyon sequences, sandstone peaks that range from red to pink, caves, granite masses sculpted by winds and waters. Elsewhere, they are plateaus carved out of craters, deserts of stone and silence, steep escarpments... In this landscape where everything seems mysterious, the wind blowing between the limestone massifs is full of meaning; perhaps it is the whisper of an ancestor?
Seven species of lemurs are recorded in the park, including 4 nocturnal and 3 diurnal. During your walk, you will probably see the catas, sifakas, and brown lemurs... not very shy.
You will also find 86 species of birds (including the Malagasy drongo, the Benson rockbird[Pseudocossyphus bensoni], a protected endemic species, or the crow) in the exceptional calm of this place, as well as reptiles of all kinds (harmless), from the impressive lizard to snakes (boa in particular) and frogs, including the endemic Boophis albilabris occidentalis (it can be observed near the waterfall of the Nymphs). The flora includes about 1,200 species and includes aloe vera, thorns, rare palm trees such as the fire-resistant satrana (Bismarkia nobilis) and a spectacular climbing plant called "the elephant's foot" (Pachypodium rosulatum). It should be noted that 80% of the original forest was destroyed by fire in 2011; a few rare species survived by adapting (xerophilic species), such as Tapia or Heza (whose green wood is commonly used as firewood: it is perfectly combustible, like dead wood). The sabotse, an endemic plant, is said to have given its name to the massif.
Sweet nights in Rahonira
Back to Rahonira, because, to spend a few days in Isalo, it is here that we will find two dream addresses. At the gates of the park, Le Relais de la Reine is a charming hotel in an oasis of greenery (40 ha), planted in the heart of a superb site. Hiking trails have also been developed, offering spectacular views of the Isalo. It is therefore necessary to plan to stay at least two nights to be able to fully enjoy the place. Not far away, Le Jardin du Roy, an establishment run by the same owners, shares some activities with Le Relais de la Reine. There is also a restaurant and a superb sunny swimming pool. Finally, small budgets will be able to choose the "Rênes de l'Isalo" bungalows located between the two establishments
Back on the RN7
Then, while continuing to descend the RN7, we cross Ilakaka. Less than twenty years ago, this village was barely visible from the road. But Ilakaka has become a real "mushroom city" of this Far West stricto sensu, due to the discovery of important sapphire veins that have caused the influx of prospectors from all regions of Madagascar, and also from all over the world. Visits to the galleries, dug in the ground, should be done with caution, even if tour operators and guides offer a guided tour.
It is then time to drive back to Zombitse Vohibasia Park, after passing through Sakaraha, another gemstone hub. The landscapes are once again superb in this protected area which includes, over an area of 36,208 hectares, three distinct parcels: Zombitse (16,845 ha, the most accessible), Isoky Vohimena (3,293 ha) and Vohibasia (16,170 ha). This park has a deciduous dry tropical rainforest, the southernmost in Madagascar. Eight species of lemurs, many birds (47% of Madagascar's endemic species!), including the famous Bulbul d'Appert or Ritrik'ala as it is nicknamed here, only identifiable in this forest, and quite easily observed in the park's tourist areas. There are also several varieties of butterflies and lizards, including the endemic gecko Phelsuma standigui. Still far from the tourist trails, this park is all the more interesting, especially for bird lovers.
Tulear, final point of the RN7 and starting point of the beach road
After visiting the park, we will take the RN7 again to slowly descend to its Tulear terminus, 12 km north of the Tropic of Capricorn. If the city is the final point of the wonderful descent of the famous national, it is also a strategic crossroads of western Madagascar. After sometimes desert landscapes and a red and arid land, Tulear offers a touch of truly refreshing blue.
An indolent atmosphere reigns in the sun-drenched streets and the whole city seems to be resting, preferably with its feet in the sand, waiting for nightfall to fully enjoy the wild nightlife. Note that considerable efforts have been made to revitalize the region: a waterfront under renovation, expanding cultural sites and activities, a varied sports offer, notable cleanliness and beautiful paved roads to Ifaty. Because the city's asset remains above all its proximity to the wild beaches of the Mozambique Channel (Anakao, Salary, Ifaty...) to which everyone goes at the weekend.
Lazing around in Ifaty Bay
Our journey will therefore end in Ifaty Bay. A must for idleness and beautiful beaches lined with coconut trees.... If it is a seaside resort of a certain size for the region, this vision must soon be tempered (a lesser evil in this area where the sun crushes the most hardened): we are indeed very far from La Grande-Motte! The main "tourist centre" of Mangily village (when we talk about Ifaty, we are actually talking about Mangily village) is simply made up of a few establishments where bungalows are king. The village also has good diving clubs and really charming small hotels where the word "holidays" takes on its full meaning. With spots from 10 to 30 m deep, it is easy to observe eagle rays, barracudas, napoleons or stone fish, to name but a few. In addition, you can go whale watching in season (from mid-June to the end of September)! Since the construction of the RN9, most agencies have offered to finish the descent of the RN7 with a few well-deserved days of rest in Ifaty. A beautiful idea, which delights travellers every time.
The mythical baobabs to finish!
Finally, just outside the village of Mangily, it is also necessary to enjoy the Reniala Nature Reserve. Located 800 m from the sea, in a forest of baobabs and didieroaceae, this reserve, which includes a botanical trail and an ornithological reserve, covers 60 ha and includes about 1,000 xerophilic plant species (adapted to the dry climate). Unfortunately, after greeting the mythical Malagasy baobabs, it will be time to join Tulear for an internal flight to the capital Tana. Memories full of memories and, already, the desire to come back for an adventure in other parts of the Big Island.
Smart info
When? When? The southern winter, which corresponds to the dry season, is the most pleasant. It is therefore advisable to plan your stay between April and October-November, knowing that the whale season is from mid-June to the end of September.
Getting there. Flights almost daily. The average price of a return flight from Paris to Antananarivo varies between €700 and €1,500. Air Madagascar is really nice and Tsaradia, its new subsidiary, allows domestic flights.
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