2024

KARNAK TEMPLE

Religious buildings €€
4.9/5
23 reviews

Here you are at one of Egypt's most famous sites, and you're in for a thrill...
Jean-François Champollion wrote: "At last I went to the palace, or rather the city of monuments, at Karnak. There appeared to me all the magnificence of the Pharaohs, all that men have imagined and executed of the greatest. (...) All that I had admired with enthusiasm on the left bank, seemed to me miserable in comparison with the gigantic conceptions with which I was surrounded... Suffice it to say that we in Europe are no more than Lilliputians, and that no people, ancient or modern, has conceived the art of architecture on so sublime a scale, so broad, so grandiose, as did the ancient Egyptians."

Its grandiose dimensions (around 1.5 km long and 700 m wide) and the tangle of its buildings make it look more like a city than a simple temple! The temple was the world's largest religious complex, and the site originated on a sacred spot, the sacred hill, from which, according to the ancient Egyptians, the world was built. Several pharaohs sought to build temples in their own image, and the complex was extended many times. Recent developments have sought to restore the relationship between the first pylon and the Theban mountain; the trees have been cut down, and in their place an immense pavement of polished granite has been laid...

Karnak as a whole, vast, dense and bushy, cannot be revealed at a glance. In itself, it would deserve a place that would exceed the limits of this guide. For this reason, we strongly advise amateurs to enlist the services of a qualified guide. As for the others, they should let their gaze linger on these innumerable wonders as they please, without trying to see and understand everything, as this is impossible in just one or a few hours.

The temple is made up of several distinctsections: Montu (in ruins) to the north, Mut to the south and, between the two, the great temple of Amun, by far the most interesting part.

In front of the first pylon, preceded by sphinxes, was the original landing stage, of which two ramps remain. This first pylon, never completed, was one of the last constructions undertaken at Karnak. All the pylons you'll come across on your way were, at one time or another, the outer limits of the complex, which were constantly being extended.

In the main courtyard, on your left, the small temple of Sety II is dedicated to the Amun-Mut-Khonsu triad, which at the time of its construction was outside the enclosure. To the right is the temple of Ramses III, with some very realistic bas-reliefs on the walls.

Oncepast the second pylon , a forest of 134 columns appears. It's a titanic work, begun under Amenophis III. This pharaoh was responsible for the erection of the twelve columns of the central nave (23 m high and with capitals able to accommodate more than forty people standing!). Successive kings, notably Seti I and Ramses II, completed the beautiful edifice. The hall (102 m x 53 m) originally had a ceiling.

Between the third and fourth pylons lies the court of Amenophis III. Only one of the four obelisks, once in place, remains. Turning right, you enter a courtyard known as "the hiding place", where phenomenal quantities of stone and bronze statuettes (over ten thousand in all) were found, deposited there by the priests. It was unthinkable to destroy a representation of a god or his son, Pharaoh. The next courtyard contains the base of an impressively large obelisk, measuring 3.20 m on each side (Hatshepsut's obelisk measures "only" 2.60 m). To your left, against the backdrop of the sound and light stages, the greenish waters of the sacred lake, where ritual navigations took place, shimmer. You can't help but stop in front of the large scarab carved into the granite, dedicated to the god Atoum-Khepri.

Beyond the fourth pylon, an obelisk erected by Queen Hatshepsut towers 30 m above the surrounding buildings. Originally, there were two obelisks, their tops covered in gold.

Beyond the sixth and final pylon, a small courtyard gives access to the sanctuary, preceded by two imposing pink granite pillars decorated with the emblems of Lower and Upper Egypt.

The sanctuary, also in granite, was built quite late under Philip Arrhidaios (323). It served as a resting place for sacred boats. The next courtyard (former site of the primitive sanctuary, of which nothing remains) leads to the festival hall of Thoutmes III. Transformed into a church by the Christians, one of its few pillars still bears traces of ancient paintings. The best-known of the solar halls is the "botanical garden", with its exotic flowers and animals.

Adjacent to the northern enclosure is the small temple of Ptah built by Thutmes III, one of whose three sanctuaries houses a black granite statue of Sekhmet.

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 Luxor
2024

EGYPTIAN MUSEUM

Museums
4.7/5
18 reviews
Egyptian museum with several rooms displaying works of art, ancient ... Read more
 Cairo
2024

TEMPLE OF RAMSES II

Monuments to visit
4.9/5
15 reviews

The great temple of Abu Simbel was the brainchild of Ramses II. It took almost 20 years to build it out of the rock, and from it emerged this major architectural masterpiece of antiquity. It is dedicated to Amun-Ra, the most powerful god of the Theban cult, to Ra-Harakhty, who dominates the Heliopolitan cult, to Ptah, the center of the Memphis cult, and to Ramses II, the deified god.

The politico-religious significance of this temple is monumental, as if Pharaoh wanted to bring together here the three Egyptian cults, each of which had its hour of glory. He himself, by divinizing himself, as is his right since he is the successor to Ra, who was succeeded by Shu, then Gheb, then Osiris, then Horus, then Pharaoh, whose cycle continues up to him, son of Seti I, of the 19th dynasty, victorious in so many victories over his enemies, and builder of so many temples dedicated to the cult of his successor, Ra.

The temple's façade is preceded by 4 monumental statues of Ramses II seated, accompanied by his beloved wife, Nefertari, his mother, Mouttouy, and his sons and daughters. They reach heights of over 20 m. In the niche surmounting the temple entrance, the falcon-headed Ra-Harakhty stands erect, surmounted by the solar globe. A frieze of baboons completes the upper part of the façade.

A short corridor leads into the first hypostyle hall, supported by eight Osirid statues in the guise of Ramses II. On the left, they wear the white crown of Upper Egypt, on the right the double crown of the united country. The walls magnify royal victories, particularly that of Qadesh over the Hittites.

This leads into a second hypostyle hall with 4 square pillars, where Pharaoh presents offerings to the major deities of the Egyptian pantheon. A vestibule follows this hall into the sanctuary, where four seated statues stand impassively awaiting today's visitor, the priest of Amun in Pharaoh's time. These are the three major gods of the three cults and that of Ramses II.

Various chambers cut into the rock expand the ten-room temple, decorated with bas-reliefs in different colors. The axis of the temple doorway to the sanctuary was designed so that the sun would strike the statues on October 22 and February 22 of each year to celebrate festivities dear to Ramses II.

You can also visit the modern structure that backs onto the temple, which was cut up and assembled here when it was moved prior to the construction of the Aswan Dam. The contrast is interesting.

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 Abou Simbel
2024

SPHINX

Archaeological site
4.7/5
17 reviews
A magnificent Sphinx, carved directly into the rock, with a total length of ... Read more
 Plateau De Guiza
2024

TEMPLE OF HATHOR AND NEFERTARI

Religious buildings
4.9/5
8 reviews

The façade of the temple dedicated to Hathor and Ramses II's wife, Nefertari, once again expresses the desire to show the closeness of Pharaoh and the gods, but this time by elevating the royal wife to an unusual level. While Pharaoh is represented four times on the façade by monumental Osirid statues wearing the double crown, Nefertari is given two statues of the same height, whereas she was usually depicted smaller, in accordance with the canons of Egyptian statuary. In the large temple next door, Pharaoh's mother, sons and daughters are represented by statues no taller than their parents' hips.

The interior of the temple consists of a hypostyle hall supported by six pillars with hathoric capitals. On the walls, the royal wife offers gifts to the goddess, who takes on the features of either a woman or a cow, notably on a boat when Nefertari offers her papyrus. The ceiling is adorned with two different sets of royal epithets. On the left, the queen is described as follows: "The King of Upper and Lower Egypt Usermastra Setepenra, his beloved, the royal wife Nefertari Meremut, beloved of Hathor, endowed with life". The vestibule is accessed via three doors, and leads to two side chambers and the sanctuary, where a statue of Hathor in the guise of a cow emerging from the mountain is enthroned in its niche.

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 Abou Simbel
2024

MONASTERE

Religious buildings
5/5
1 review

St. Catherine's Monastery, also known as the Monastery of the Transfiguration, is a magnificent complex perched at 1,570 m above sea level. Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is one of the oldest monasteries in the world still in use, and certainly one of the finest examples of Byzantine architecture. Almost all of its walls date back to its construction, ordered by Emperor Justinian (in 527). The monastery was intended to protect hermits from looters. The architect Ailisios, in charge of the work, chose a site where a chapel marked the location of the bush-ardent. To avoid destroying it, he incorporated it into the construction of a new church and protected the whole complex with a powerful wall 2.6 m thick, thus creating both a monastery and a fortress. It is said that Ailisios was condemned to death and executed for not placing the monastery on top of Mount Moses. His choice proved wise, however, as the monastery withstood looting, wear and tear and earthquakes. Two hundred families from Macedonia, Romania, Egypt and Arabia were dispatched to protect the monks and provide the stewardship. From the 8th and 9th centuries onwards, the descendants of these families converted en masse to Islam, and today form a very specific and localized tribe, the Jebelyeh (mountain people). Although Muslim, they recognize the spiritual authority of the Archbishop of Sainte-Catherine.

Throughout their existence, edicts (some signed by august hands, such as those of the Prophet Mohammed or General Bonaparte, to name but the most famous) have protected the monks, and only the Bedouins have had any difficulty in respecting them. The greatest threat came from Egypt in the 11th century, when the Caliph Hakim came to the valley with the intention of razing the monastery to the ground. This fanatical ruler had already destroyed numerous Christian buildings. This time, however, he gave up in extremis, in exchange for a mosque to be built on the monastery's grounds. During the Egyptian campaign, Bonaparte had some parts of the enclosure restored, including the north-facing wall. The opening of an entrance door eliminated the need for the wooden elevator that had previously been the only means of access inside the walls. The wooden gallows and pulley are still visible.

Around a third of the building is open to the public. You'll see the basilica, the oldest parts of which date back to the 6th century. In addition to its 12 massive granite columns representing the 12 apostles, it is rich in superb icons... The Transfiguration Mosaic is remarkable: created in memory of Justinian's wife, its 500,000 pieces date back to the 6th century. Pierre Loti described his moving visit thus: "The two leaves of a cedar door carved 1,300 years ago are opened before us, and we enter into the astonishment of this unique place in the world... The view, at first, is dazzled and disconcerted by the profusion of chandeliers, silver lamps... One feels plunged into a naïve and magnificent past, so distant and yet so present that it worries the mind..."

The burning bush is located outside the church, in front of the apse. In 2000, Pope John Paul II paid his first visit to Coptic Orthodox lands. The chapel of the bush-ardent, located behind the church choir, is considered the most sacred place in the entire monastery. The altar is erected on the roots of the bush, making it the most sacred place in the monastery. Like Moses, you must take off your shoes before entering.

What you won't be able to see: the treasure trove of gifts from devotees (gold chalices, candlesticks, bishop's crosses and crosses...); the mosque, refectory, icon collection... (there are said to be over 2,000); the library, considered the second largest in the world after the Vatican in terms of manuscripts and incunabula. It contains over 32,000 manuscripts, most of them written or copied by the monks of the monastery over the centuries (visit available on request). In order to preserve its archives, the Monastery has undertaken the digitization of all its documents. Don't be surprised if you don't hear the nine bells donated by the Russian Church: they only ring on feast days. Every day, a wooden bell punctuates the day.

The monastery's community is made up of around twenty monks, under the leadership of their abbot, whose particularity in the Orthodox world is that he is autocephalous (an independent head). Indeed, since an imperial decree gave them this privilege, the monastery's abbot is subject to no higher jurisdiction than his own. Belonging to the Greek Orthodox Church, whose patriarch has, in principle, no authority over the monastery's abbot.

An ossuary is located outside the enclosure. These are the remains of the monks who died in the monastery. So as not to waste the little arable land they had, the monks had only a very small cemetery. They were buried here and, a few decades later, their bones were deposited in this room. The ossuary was closed to visitors in 2020.

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 Sainte-Catherine
2024

MOUNT MOÏSE OR GEBEL MOUSSA (2,285 M)

Shrines and pilgrimage sites to visit
5/5
1 review

According to the religions of the Book, it was perched on the summit of this mountain that Moses received the Tables of the Law. Some climb it out of faith, whether Christian or Jewish, while others do it for the sheer pleasure of it. Whatever your motivation, the steep path to the summit is breathtakingly beautiful and the final panorama breathtaking. Allow between 2 and 3 hours for the climb. Sunrise and sunset are two particularly famous and... crowd-pleasing moments. For many, it remains a unique experience, but you won't be alone. You can also sleep under the stars at the top of Mount Moses, bearing in mind that it's very cold in winter and snow is not uncommon. Beware of falling on steps made slippery by frost. In summer, many people spend the night at the summit, making it necessary to "mark" your place, but the atmosphere remains friendly and relaxed. In high season, those who prefer a quieter pace will prefer to make the ascent mid-morning, when the site deserted by visitors has regained its calm and natural splendor. Remember to bring enough water, however, as the thermometer climbs very quickly.

For the first part of the ascent, you can choose between two paths that meet 20 minutes from the summit: either the camel track (gently sloping, up to the junction), which is customary on the way up, or the steps (around 300), which are best taken on the way down. In both cases, the path is clear and marked by plastic bottles (on the right, a little to the rear of the monastery, the route of the steps; straight ahead, on a wide strip of earth, the camel trail). At the top is a small chapel dedicated to the Holy Trinity and a mosque built over the grotto in which Moses stayed for 40 days. To the north, in the foreground, the Freiah massif and, much further back, the immense Tih plateau, so feared by the Bedouins for its lack of water. To the east, the Gulf of Aqaba and, on a clear day, the foothills of Saudi Arabia, another world. To the south-west, the huge, superb mass of Mount Sainte-Catherine (2,637 m). You may even catch a glimpse of the chapel on the horizon.

There is one precondition for this climb: you must be accompanied by a local guide. If you're carrying a heavy load, you can also hire a camel.

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 Sainte-Catherine
2024

MUMMIFICATION MUSEUM

Museums
4.2/5
5 reviews

A beautiful, well laid-out museum, where the art of mummification is presented step by step. Along with the Luxor Museum, this is one of Egypt's most important museums, behind only the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. Opened in 1997, the museum explains the 70-day mummification process. During your visit, you'll discover the curiosities of this ancestral rite, such as the stellar origin of the instruments or the social exclusion suffered by the workers. A human mummy and mummified animals are also on display.

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 Luxor
2024

LUXOR TEMPLE

Religious buildings
4.8/5
16 reviews

Now you're ready to discover a superb temple not to be missed. Most of the present-day structure of Luxor Temple dates from the reign of Amenhotep III (1400 BC) and Ramses II (1235 BC). It is mainly dedicated to Amun, but also to Mut, his wife, and Khonsu, their son. This temple was very busy during the Opet festivities. The three sacred barks of Amun, Mut and Khonsu, stored year-round in their sanctuary at Karnak, would leave the temple on the shoulders of the priests to the general jubilation.

A 3 km-long alley, called dromos, lined with sphinxes, some of which are still visible, once again links Luxor to Karnak.

In front of the first pylon built by Ramses, only one obelisk remains. Both had been offered to France in 1831 by Mohammed Ali, but only one was transported to Parisand has since been enthroned on the Place de la Concorde. Symbolically, as soon as he was elected, President François Mitterrand, whose attachment to Egypt was well known, returned the obelisk that had remained in place.

Crossing the first pylon, on your right, you'll discover a chapel with three chambers, used as resting places for the barks of Amun, Mut and Khonsu. Built by Tuthmosis III, this chapel breaks with the parallelism of the courtyard columns. On the left, overlooking the site, you'll notice the unusual location of a small mosque built in the 13th century, at a time when the ruins of Luxor were still buried under sand. There was later talk of moving it, but the subject no longer seems to be on the agenda. The courtyard, built during the reign of Ramses II, is adorned with imposing statues of him. It opens onto an impressive avenue lined with columns, behind which you can observe processional scenes from the Opet festival. The bas-reliefs date back to Tutankhamun and Horemheb. The next courtyard, that of Amenhotep III, surrounded by columns, was once covered by a ceiling of such magnitude that it's hard to imagine its size. The repository in front of the sanctuary was rebuilt under Alexander the Great. The bas-reliefs depict him in the company of Amun, demonstrating the god's enduring importance in early Greek times. Try to time your visit for the end of the day or in the evening, it's grandiose. All lit up, it stands out against the blackish backdrop that night has laid over the city. It's magical!

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 Luxor
2024

TEMPLE OF MILLIONS OF YEARS

Ancient monuments
5/5
1 review

The main temple at Abydos was built by Seti I (1318-1304 B.C.), and was reworked and completed by his son, Ramses II, who completed most of the decorative bas-reliefs. Long before them, other monarchs had built temples to Osiris on the same site. Together with the Osirion Cenotaph, they form part of a coherent complex dedicated to the cult of Osiris, enclosed by mud-brick walls and accessed via a main pylon to the northeast, or a secondary pylon to the southwest, now overlooking the desert.

First pylon and courtyard, second pylon and courtyard. Nothing remains of these first two courtyards, apart from their architectural foundations. At the far end of the second courtyard is the first portico, preceded by twelve square columns. In this portico are 2 openings and 5 niches; in fact, SetyI had opened 7 doors and Ramses II had 5 filled in. They led to the five inner chapels.

First and second hypostyle halls, chapels. 24 columns support the ceiling of the first hall, opening onto the second through seven doors. 36 columns support the ceiling of the second hypostyle hall, formerly an offering room, which is divided into two levels. The second level houses 7 chapels, arranged side by side. The central chapel is wider than the others and was dedicated to Amun; to its left, the chapel of Ré, Ptah and the monarch; to its right, the chapels of Osiris, which gives access to other rooms that span the width of the temple, Isis and Horus.

Logistical" rooms. Two doors in the second hypostyle hall lead to two rooms used to store sacred barks, five rooms containing the treasury, and a set of 5 rooms that served as a sacred slaughterhouse; note that jars are sealed to the floor and that gutters were dug to facilitate the draining of blood.

A staircase leads to a promontory outside the temple, giving access to the Osirion-cenotaph.

Osirian festivals have always been celebrated at Abydos, featuring the confrontation between the two brothers Set and Osiris, Isis's search for the body parts of her brother and husband, and the reconstitution of the body. To this day, some visitors to Abydos worship the Osirian cult.

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 Abydos
2024

RAMOSE GRAVE

Archaeological site

One of the most beautiful tombs. Vizier under Amenophis IV, who later became Akhenaton, his tomb was never completed. 32 columns support the ceiling of the vestibule, and a further 8 in the room leading to the chapel of the deceased. The sculpted bas-reliefs are impressive in their finesse: observe the hair and eye contours. At the far end is a representation of Akhenaten, his wife Nefertiti and their children presenting an offering to Aten; the grapes of the one god have been broken so that his blessing no longer benefits the heretic Pharaoh.

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 Tombes Des Nobles
2024

MUSEUM OF ANCIENT EGYPTIAN ART

Museums €€
4.3/5
4 reviews

Located on the cornice leading to Karnak, in a modern building, it houses a small but splendid collection of pieces of rare quality. The interior layout, carried out by a team from the Brooklyn Museum in New York, is an undeniable success: the scenography is clear and perfectly organized.

Entrance hall, works from the 18th dynasty - colossal head of Amenophis III in red Aswan granite; the features of this head are particularly round, giving the whole a gentle air to the king. - Statue of Amon in limestone; the main god of the Theban Triad is represented under the triads of King Tutankhamun, whose youth and vigour can be felt. - Hathor's head in blackened wood enhanced with gilded copper horns; this head is part of the treasure of King Tutankhamun's tomb, most of whose works are kept in the Egyptian Museum in Cairo.

Room of the "hiding place" (ground floor): works found together in the court of Amenophis III - Monumental statue of Amenophis III in red granite; touching composition magnifying the youth and beauty of the smiling king

Great Hall (ground floor): a majority of works from the 18th dynasty - painted bas-relief of Thutmes III in limestone and pigments; the freshness of the colours of this relief is striking and gives a true picture of what the colourful walls of the temples were like. - Statue of the god Sebek and King Amenophis III; it is rare to see the god Sebek, of the triad of Kom Ombo, represented, and the staging of the statue inspires fear and respect. - Colossal head of Sesostris III (12th dynasty) in red granite; a fine example of Egyptian statuary, which sometimes represented its rulers unvarnished, tired, marked by the years like this head.

New room(ground floor): - Mummy of Ahmosis, founder of the 18th dynasty, originally from Thebes; - Mummy of Ramses I, back from a long journey.

Great Hall - Talatat Wall (first floor): this wall built by Akhenaten had been destroyed and the stones used for the 9th Pylon of Karnak; it has been reconstructed and reassembled and depicts four scenes of domestic life, work in the workshops, the ritual procession and worship in the sun. - A display case contains other objects that were found in Tutankhamen's tomb, including the touching golden rosettes that decorated the cloth of his sarcophagus. - Monumental heads of Akhenaten.

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 Luxor
2024

MOSQUE MOHAMMED ALI

Religious buildings
4.2/5
5 reviews
A superb mosque in the style of Istanbul's Sainte-Sophie mosque, in keeping ... Read more
 Cairo
2024

SULEIMAN PASHA MOSQUE

Religious buildings
4/5
2 reviews
Mosque with a prayer hall topped by four domes, one of which is very large ... Read more
 Cairo
2024

EL-GHURI MOSQUE AND PALACE

Religious buildings
4/5
1 review
Mosque with four iwans in its inner courtyard, a superb porch adorned with ... Read more
 Cairo
2024

IBN TOULOUN MOSQUE

Religious buildings
3/5
1 review
A large ancient mosque preserving its original appearance, with arcades ... Read more
 Cairo
2024

CHEOPS PYRAMID

Archaeological site
4.9/5
15 reviews
Large pyramid with 3 million blocks, adjusted to a current height of 137 m, ... Read more
 Plateau De Guiza
2024

DJOSER FUNERAL COMPLEX

Archaeological site
4.9/5
7 reviews
Funerary complex housing a stepped pyramid at the center of a rectangular ... Read more
 Saqqarah
2024

TEMPLE OF HORUS

Religious buildings
4.8/5
8 reviews

Thanks to its exceptional state of preservation (the best in Egypt), the Edfu temple leaves a lasting impression. Its dimensions are impressive: it's the third-largest temple in Egypt after Karnak and Medinat-Abu. Construction began in 237 BC and took almost two centuries. The temple retains a perfect homogeneity in both structure and decoration, and vividly recreates the atmosphere that must have reigned there in ancient times. The sanctuary itself - the holy of holies - was accessible only to the local king and high priest. Dedicated to Horus, the great sky god, it is remarkable for its bas-reliefs, notably those depicting the annual meeting of Horus and Hathor, and those representing the goddess Nut in the New Year's chapel. Take time to observe the detail of some of the 18,000 hieroglyphs in near-perfect condition: impressive.

The 36 m-highpylon has retained the vertical grooves used to erect the wooden flagpoles. After crossing the forecourt of columns with capitals in the shape of palm, lotus or papyrus, you enter the first hypostyle hall, whose walls are decorated with scenes of offerings. Once again, the ensemble evokes nature, a marsh or a wood; plant motifs are found on every column. The room has 18 columns, 6 of which are enclosed halfway up by a wall that conceals the room's interior. To the left of the entrance, you'll notice a pink granite statue of Horus, and another broken one.

A second, smaller but more eleganthypostyle hall , supported by 12 columns, leads to several chambers where offerings were stored and rituals prepared. The next 2 rooms provide access to other chambers or chapels via staircases. The sanctuary, which retains its chapel carved from a single block of granite, dates from the reign of Nectanibis II. It originally featured a doorway and housed the sacred statue of Horus. The altar in front of the statue supported the god's bark.

Around the sanctuary, a corridor leads to 10 chambers. In one of these, a processional boat has been reconstructed. An open-air ambulatory takes you almost all the way around the building. Take your time to decipher the countless scenes depicted, and you'll be able to review Egyptian mythology. At the end of the visit, the subtle interplay of light and shadow within the edifice leaves its mark.

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 Edfou
2024

ALEXANDRINA LIBRARY

Libraries to visit €€
5/5
3 reviews
Extraordinary library on 7 interconnected levels, with 3 museums, ... Read more
 Alexandria