Fabrication de dentelle © North Art Photography - Shutterstock.com.jpg
Marché Dolac à Zagreb ©  Subodh Agnihotri - Shutterstock.com.jpg

Ties and lace

The Croata brand, leader in the tie market, has opened seven boutiques in Zagreb and museum concept shops in Osijek, Rijeka, Zadar, Split and Dubrovnik. Other fashion designer clothes and accessories are on display at the Croatian Design Superstore (Take Me Home), Etno Butik Mara and Ana Žarković (Nit), Mladen Jeweller Grubić Art Jewellery.

The tradition of lace also goes back a long way. On the island of Pag, the Lace Museum tells the story of the Croatian origins of the openwork work. Created with a needle, by interlacing various fibres, in agave yarn (island of Hvar) or spindle yarn (in Lepoglava in Hrvatsko Zagorje), the three creations are inscribed by UNESCO on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. By selling their work, Croatian lace-makers preserve this know-how.

Craftsmanship can be bought locally!

In the tourist markets of large cities, beware of counterfeiting. Especially true for lace, the advice also applies to silk embroideries from Konavle, crystal tableware from Samobor or ceramic doves from Vučedol

To the island of Brač, where the famous white stone quarries are still exploited, perfect for jewellery and everyday objects. When getting off the ferry, you can't miss the stands of the many merchants located in the port of Supetar/Brač, but also at Pučišća, where there is a famous stonemason's workshop, and even at the nearby Split market. The other beautiful specialty of the Dalmatian capital is the traditional jewellery store made of gold and silver filigrees, which continues in the Filigran Split shop/workshop (Bosanka Street). In Dubrovnik, at Clara Stones (street Nalješkovićeva) or Dubrovnik Treasures (street Celestina Medivića), red coral and precious stones are still being worked on.

Museums also have some good surprises in store. For example, in Zadar, the Ancient Glass Museum is amazing. The tour includes a demonstration of blown glass and in the shop authentic everyday objects, made in the antique way. In Zagreb, the Museum of Decorative Arts also sells admirable replicas (tableware, jewellery, bottles, etc.) while the Ethnographic Museum offers wooden toys, the manufacture of which is based on the traditional craftsmanship of Hrvatsko Zagorje. At the Museum of Naive Art, we will choose charming reproductions, small formats, at the Museum of Contemporary Art, design objects (stationery, graphic arts), at the Museum of Broken Hearts, more unusual arty gifts.

But to find a real Penkala fountain pen takes time and luck. The name of controlled origin comes from its inventor, Slavoljub Eduard Penkala, an engineer born in Slovakia who was naturalized Croatian. In 1907, he created the first mechanical pen with an integrated reservoir in Zagreb. Perhaps on Sunday mornings at the flea market (Place Britanski)... The Dolac market is active every day. It always has room for small craftsmen who make colourful bouquets of dried flowers, decorative rock compositions, rattles, flaps and superb coloured eggs at Easter. Nearby, the bookseller Antikvarijat sells old history books in French.

If you are more of a painter, you may be interested in the galleries of Rovinj, Pula and the landscape designers of Labin in Istria. But for contemporary art, the place to be in 2020 is Rijeka (European Capital of Culture). On the city's official website, you can consult the cultural agenda as well as the online shop catalogue. Bronze jewellery with stones set with the motif of the Little Moor (Morčić), symbol of the Kvarner region, is sold there.

In Croatia, natural cosmetics and essential oils are of high quality. These beauty/wellness products, which focus on regional apothecary blends, can be purchased in pharmacies (ljekarna), in the Ulola boutique, the specialized stores Aromatica and DM. On the other hand, if you want to own a nice little white dog with black spots (Croatian AOC!), we strongly advise you to get closer to the French Dalmatien Club. Its members will give you all the general information about the breed and help you make a purchase or adoption according to the rules.