Parc national de Velebit ©goran_safarek - Shutterstock.com.jpg
Parc national du Velebit © sparc - Shutterstock.com.jpg

Must-see nature getaways

Of the eight national parks, eleven nature parks and two nature reserves, the Plitvice Lakes National Park is a must. Eight different itineraries, in the form of a loop, marked out, make it possible to make routes of 3 to 8 hours around sixteen lakes linked together by impressive waterfalls. You can see the largest waterfall in Croatia (Veliki Slap) and go boating on the large Kozjac Lake. On the outskirts of the site, you will find hotels, gîtes, campsites... For hiking enthusiasts, the Biokovo National Park, classified as a natural park, is also a must. It offers sublime views over the sea. Its highest peak, St. George's Day, is 1,762 m (5,762 ft). This site, which can be visited all year round, is home to a varied fauna: chamois, wolves, a wide variety of birds and tawny eagles. Paragliding and climbing are also available. The nature park at Učka also offers beautiful views of the Gulf of Kvarner. Rare bird species live and breed in this park: the bellflower of Učka, the griffon vulture or the golden eagle. Less frequented but equally interesting, the Risnjak Nature Park, with its tracks along the Kupa River, its lake and its climbing walls, is a guarantee of a breath of fresh air. The Sjerverni Velebit National Park was once home to herders. It was established as a park in 1999. The winters are harsh, but as soon as the weather is fine it is a paradise for lovers of unspoilt nature. In Zagreb, Botanički vrt is a small green setting in the city with two artificial lakes and planted paths, open in spring and summer.

Tourism, good for the economy, bad for the ecology

Croatia is home to a rich biodiversity, in a vast network of protected areas. Its eight national parks and eleven natural parks alone cover an area of 5,151 km², or 9.1% of the national territory. The Plitvice lakes are on the World Heritage List, while the Velebit massif and the Mur-Drave-Danube regional park are part of the international network of MAB biosphere reserves. Natura 2000 areas represent 36.5% of the country's surface area. But this beauty of the landscape whets the appetite of investors, at the risk of endangering nature. The best example of this is the situation in Plitvice Lakes National Park, where the number of visitors increased from 500,000 in 1979 to 1.7 million in 2017. The buildings that have flourished around the park, as well as their non-compliant drainage systems, directly affect the lake ecosystem. In addition, tourists do not always respect marked routes or swimming bans. As a result, UNESCO threatened to move the park to the list of World Heritage in Danger.

Croatian coasts also suffer from paradoxes. Croatian beaches and waters are of very good environmental quality, among the best in the Mediterranean region. But here again, tourism has an impact. Unregulated water activities, construction on protected coastal areas, or waste generated by the flow of tourists, weigh on the Adriatic Sea. Cruise ships, although fewer in number than a few years ago, continue to generate many forms of pollution, particularly due to their discharges of chemicals and waste water. Another concern is that Croatia's entry into the EU has resulted in increased industrial fishing in its waters. The decline of fish and shellfish of all kinds is particularly marked in this region of the Mediterranean, also affected by climate change.

Associations mobilized for the preservation of the coasts and the climate

Faced with mass tourism and its consequences, Zelena Akcija (Action verte in French), a member of the International Federation of Friends of the Earth, is one of the most well-known associations. It has been mobilizing against the concreteization of coastlines for about ten years. Other areas of focus include the fight against oil and gas exploration. She was joined in this fight by the Fridays for Future-Zagreb association, created in the wake of the climate appeal launched by Swedish activist Greta Thunberg.

One of the major projects challenged by environmental associations is the floating liquefied natural gas (LNG) terminal on Krk Island, which is expected to come into operation in 2020, but whose work is far from finished. LNG is a fossil fuel and emits CO2. In addition, the installation of this terminal with an annual capacity of 2.6 billion cubic metres raises concerns for the coastline. The European Union supports this project, the first of its kind in Croatia, which is expected to reduce the country's dependence on Russia, to which a lot of gas is now imported. But the associations believe that this project will mainly serve private interests.

Waste management: the urgency to act

This is one of Croatia's major weaknesses in terms of the environment. The country is one of the least efficient members of the European Union in the management of its waste, to the point that it is at risk of not meeting the recycling targets set for 2020. The waste centres are very badly managed, particularly the one at Marišćina, which the associations are calling for to be closed. The municipality of Krk is on the right track, with more than 50% of waste sorted, but next door, the situation in the capital Zagreb is appalling. This city, which is home to 25% of Croatia's population and generates a third of the country's waste, is the worst European capital in terms of sorting and recycling. It is not uncommon to see piles of rubbish accumulating on the pavements due to a lack of well-organised collection. There is, however, a remarkable initiative in the country: the island of Zlarin has decided to engage in the fight against single-use plastic. Shops, restaurants, associations and local authorities have signed a declaration committing them to reduce their use of plastic. You too can take the fold, avoiding plastic cups or overwrapped food.