Things to see and do North Coast

Buried under the sand, it is one of the most impressive pre-Incan cities of Peru. In the Muchik language, spoken on the coast before the arrival of the Incas, Chan Chan means "where there was sun". It was the capital of the Chimú Empire which shone from the 9th to the 15th century, after having supplanted the Mochica kingdom (4th to 9th century). It was inscribed by Unesco on the List of Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 1986. The world's largest earthen city covered an area of 14 km² and included no less than 28 palaces where some 150,000 people would have lived. It is believed that the Chimu civilization was military with a lord and master of each valley.

Of this grandiose city, only theadobe

walls remain today, which the storms continue to erode. There are still nine palaces standing. Of the palaces of Chaiwac, Uhle, Laberinto, Gran Chimú, Squier, Velarde, Bandalier and Nik An, several have been restored and copies of the original friezes installed to give a more accurate idea of the place. They are scattered along the Pan-American Highway and the most impressive one, Palacio Nik An, is visited.

The Palacio Nik An (the palace of the center in Muchik language) - ex-Palacio Tschudi - is a monumental complex that is breathtaking: you walk between the brick walls, some of which are 13 m high, and you open onto immense spaces, the patios. The walls are filled with bas-reliefs representing fish, birds, fantastic animals and squirrels in a repetitive and bewitching way. The spaces are each time divided into 3 levels: the smooth sky, the sea represented by lines and waves and the earth and its animals. A central space, now populated by reeds, was one of the largest purifying baths. Nearly 140 water wells have been found all around Chan Chan, 90% of which are inside the palaces: he who possessed the water possessed the power. It is here in this immense palace that the Festival of the Dead and its sacred mummies were celebrated, for which the inhabitants brought tributes from all over the valley, so we think that a large part of it was also a granary or depository for all the offerings.

Note that Chan Chan includes four sites rather spaced: the main complex called Palacio Nik An, the site museum (rather basic), Huaca Esmeralda and Huaca Arco Iris. It is also worthwhile to negotiate a taxi to go from one site to the other.

Itis in the Huaca de la Luna that the remains of 107 sacrificed warriors and numerous polychrome bas-reliefs were unearthed. We explore the site via stairs installed all along the building to have a better view on the friezes. Unfortunately, everything is quite degraded, but the remaining friezes marvel at their detail and color. Archaeologists say that more than 250,000 people participated in its construction. Its construction lasted no less than 600 years!

We find there especially Aie Paec painted of red and ochre, the god with the teeth of feline surrounded by birds and snake, which represents the mountain when Cico paec is the marine god surrounded by waves. The most impressive wall is located on the back part of the huaca: 6 floors of distinct friezes with the procession of the winners and losers chained, the priests, the spiders, the fishermen and so on successively

Around the years 600 or 650, the region undergoes chronic El Niño phenomena which leads to a social revolt since neither the priests nor the nobles manage to control the climate and then a progressive migration which will give birth to the neighboring Chan Chan built on a terraced ground which allows the water to filter. In spite of everything, the Huaca del Sol et de la Luna remains a place of worship, of homage to the ancestors buried here.

The Huaca del Sol is the highest in Peru with its 45 m. It is not open to the public and has not yet been the subject of extensive excavations. It is imposing and photogenic, compared to its neighbor which was gradually deconstructed to access the treasures it contained.

The museum,subsidized by private funds, is very didactic and rich. A visit not to be missed. Here we find the offerings with which the dead were buried. You can also see anthropomorphic animals, realistic portraits where the features are drawn with precision and scenes of sacrifice. Today we think that sacrifices were not so frequent, but that a special caste was raised and trained for the office of fighter, a bit like noble gladiators. In crucial moments, such as the El Niño phenomenon, fights were organized and the winners and losers were separated. The defeated ones remained between 10 or 15 days to be prepared for their ultimate sacrifice. Finally, some huari ceramics testify to the last phase of occupation of the place.

This new museum opened in 2002 is the pride of the region! It houses the collection of archaeological objects from the tomb of the Lord of Sipán, in gold, silver and copper. The reconstitutions of the tombs and the daily life in Sipan are impressive. Very beautiful museography. A must-see, with the site of Tucume quite close. Don't forget to visit the handicraft stands just behind. Ask for the aldea mochica (you can enter it without going to the museum).

It is thanks to the German ethnographer and linguist Heinrich Brüning, who, from 1884 to 1925, devoted his energy and fortune to the study of the civilizations of Peru, that this museum was built (Brüning bequeathed his collections to Peru). About 1,500 pieces (ceramics, weapons, utensils and mummies) from the Chavín, Lambayeque, Vicús, Mochica, Chimú and Sicán cultures are exhibited here. Interesting, but the museography is a bit old-fashioned compared to the Tumbas Reales de Sipan museum.

This square is one of the oldest in the country. Gently shaded thanks to its many trees (mainly fruit trees), it is a small oasis in the city. The square and its immediate surroundings have preserved some beautiful colonial buildings of interest, such as the headquarters of the Banco Central. It is a perfect place to take a short break and cool off on a bench in the shade. At nightfall, the lighting makes the place more romantic. A nice walk once the evening coolness has settled.

Also known as the Basílica Catedral San Miguel Arcángel de Piura, this cathedral located in the city's Plaza de Armas was built in 1588. It jealously guards the treasures of its nave: gilded altar, altarpiece of the Virgen de Fatima (carved in magnificent Nicaraguan cedar) which has adorned it for 350 years, a portrait of the libertador San Martín painted by Ignacio Merino and a Purísima Concepción of the Quito school. Partially destroyed after the earthquake of 1912, it was the Spanish sculptor Julian Aliaga who remade its altar.

It is the most imposing cloister-church complex in the region. Among its many treasures are the church furnishings, more than 150 paintings from the 17th and 18th centuries, including those of the Quito school, and magnificent altarpieces, one of which was sculpted by the artist Fernando Collado and is considered to be his major work. The church furniture and altarpieces date from 1759. Unfortunately, the complex has been closed to visitors for some years. Beautiful illumination at nightfall. Normally open on Sunday mornings.

One of the most typical markets in Peru. You will find as usual fruits and vegetables, fruit juices, clothes, handicrafts, but also and especially, a corner reserved for the brujos (witch doctors). In these stalls you can find medicinal or hallucinogenic plants, whale bones, snake skins, powders and ritual objects... A very popular place for shamans. It is worth the detour for the open minded or to learn more about the pre-Hispanic traditions still used today.

The most remarkable casona , by its proportions and its richness, is that of the Palacio Iturregui. Its 3 patios and its multitude of rooms are the seat of the Club Central. The Palacio was built in the 19th century by Manuel de Iturregui y Aguilarte, a nobleman of Basque origin who took part in the liberation struggles. It is the headquarters of the Club Central, the most exclusive social club in the city. Depending on the directories, the place is more or less accessible for a look at the columns and golden mouldings. From the outside, one can already appreciate the wrought iron gates.

Its location in the city is such that it was desired by the Spanish conquistador Diego de Almagro. In the center of the square, you can admire the monument of Liberty, a strange baroque marble statue whose genitals are said to have been shortened following a complaint from the nuns, whose convent was just opposite... This square is wide, lined with colored casonas, dressed with palm trees, it is undoubtedly one of the most elegant in the country. On one side the cathedral stands out with its yellow/orange walls.

This beautiful church with its yellow and white walls is one of the city's most important historical monuments. It is built like a basilica with a central nave and several side chapels. Above the pulpit, there is a winged statue of St. Vincent made of golden bread. The large central altarpiece is in the rich Baroque style. During the period of independence, the convent of Santo Domingo was used as a prison. This beautiful church is now a Cultural Monumental Heritage of the Nation.

Built between 1680 and 1708, the church of Belén houses a rare piece: a stone sculpture of the Holy Family.

This beach and its malecón are mostly frequented by families who come from Trujillo on weekends. Be careful, because here the sea is rough and dangerous. If you want to go in the water, you must be daring and a good swimmer. We do not recommend walking on this beach. Indeed, many robberies have taken place, as well as dog attacks... If you are not afraid of the crowds, prefer Huanchaco because the beach is much safer and you will be able to take nice sunset pictures on the pier.

One of the most beautiful seaside sites in the north of Lima, set back from the Panamericana (500 m on foot). The water here is clear, the roadstead protected from the winds and, although it is the favorite beach of the inhabitants of Chimbote, even of Huaraz, it is not too "polluted" by tourism. It is really a beach with a postcard decor! El Farol has a^2nd hotel there. There is also the Ponciana Beach and the more humble hostal Gabriela. Some restaurants like the Cabo Blanco for excellent seafood dishes.

It is better to contact the guides' association or an agency to reserve, the places are isolated and the cost in transport, if you are alone, can be high. The visit itself lasts about 3 hours on foot, but it starts at 40 minutes drive from Santa Catalina de Chongoyape. 214 species of birds, 21 species of mammals and 20 species of reptiles and amphibians have been recorded. To get to Santa Catalina de Chongoyape, combine at the Epsel terminal or take a direct taxi.