" Ari-que-pay "in quechua, the native language Peruvian, means" Yes, you can stay ". And we don't get prayed: the second city of Peru, after Lima, its more chaotic capital, charm by its cultural, gastronomic and natural assets. Located in the extreme south, in the foothills of the Cordillera, at 2,335 meters above sea level, it is often the first Andean puff of a stay in Peru. Its reasonable altitude and mild climate make it perfect for acclimatizing at altitude. With its 850,000 souls, Arequipa remains a provincial and peaceful place.

A prosperous story

Its unique stamp, Arequipa owes it to the «sillar»: a white volcanic stone extracted from the close quarries that served as building material for its main monuments, churches and casonas, these large colonial houses witness its richness. Since 1540 and its foundation, Arequipa has always prospered: first by commercializing the money extracted from the Potosi mines (located in current Bolivia), then in the nineteenth century, thanks to the alpaca wool. The historic center is full of chic boutiques where you can buy ponchos, scarves and bonnets with an incomparable warmth and warmth. Free and didactic, you can also visit the manufacturing workshops.

Even the many earthquakes were not right for the proud Lady Blanche. Classified as a world heritage site by UNESCO in 2000, the historic center of Arequipa has little to envy the very popular Cusco.

A unique colonial heritage

Around an immaculate cathedral, its Place d 'Armes, its fountain, its palm trees and its pigeons, the center extends over a dozen «cuadras» or streets. It is discovered on foot, alone or with a guide. Its essential jewel is the Santa Catalina Monastery. As early as 1570, girls of good family lived a monacal life there. At the end of the morning, the sun illuminates perfectly its maze of corridors and patios to the ochre and deep blue tones, its arcades and their almost infant frescoes. Around the Plaza de Armas it is the casonas that compete: Casa Moral, Goyoneche or Tristan del Pozo and their open doors. In the south, the Claustro de la Compañia houses a suite of patios on the ground in checkerboards, fountains, shops and some cafés. The Iglesia de la Compañia seduced by its exuberant baroque facade and its dome with exotic motifs. In the center of the city, you can also feel the atmosphere of the San Camilo market, signed by Gustave Eiffel.

On the other side of the Chili River, we arrive on the heights of Yanahuara. The old town of Misti, its 5,822 meters and its discreet snow hat, is embraced by the old town. Yanahuara is the ideal area to discover local gastronomy.

A gastronomic signature

Its picanterías, typical traditional restaurants typical of the city, serve creamy soup soups of wild shrimp (comrade of camarones) or a famous chopped chili meat (rocoto relleno). Arequipa also has its own lot of chic restaurants. This is where the Chi Cha gastrobar was born, signed Gaston Acurio, Peru's most recognized leader. The osso buco of veal is, for example, cooked in the chicha, the fermented corn drink of the Incas. Zig Zag offers specialties cooked with lava stone. Very chic casonas of the day host pisco bars (grape distilled with grapes growing along the south coast). And two artisanal chocolate mills came into being.

Under the protection of volcanoes

Luckily, Arequipa offers plenty of burns to burn all these calories. In 3 hours we can descend the Chile River into rafting, and in 6 hours the fringes of the volcano Chachani (6,075 meters) in ATV. The city has its venerated guards (apus in quechua): Misti, Chachani and Pichu Pichu. The agencies offer the escalation of Misti or Chachani in 2 days -1 night. Misti is the most impressive: The final ascension is done in the early morning, on time to see the city discover when the dawn pushes the shadow of the volcano.

A final challenge, more technical this one, is the escalation of Ampato and its 6,380 meters. It was in the fringes of this volcano that, in 1995, the mummy Juanita was discovered: a teenage girl who was sacrificed to the god of the mountains. This "ice princess" awaits you intact at the Santuarios Andinos Museum in Arequipa.

By leaving the city, the most classic excursion crosses the Salinas de Aguas Blancas reserve. On these huge shave plains, all the Andean camels of the postcards: the trapu lama, the alpaca toy and the graceful gracile. From March to June the flaming flames arise on Salinas salt lake in the shadow of Pichu Pichu and Ubinas. The visitor goes along the 350 000 hectares of this reserve on the way to the other unavoidable region of the region: The Colca Canyon and its 3,430 meters deep over the condors.

Canyon du Colca

The Colca is undoubtedly the destination destination for visitors. After about 4 hours we reach Chivay at 3,633 meters above sea level, the first of 14 villages. Its reputation, this canyon owes it to the Cruz del Condor. At around 8:00 a. m., when the sun heats their feathers, condors are springing from here for a majestic ballet. The trekkers will then descend the 1,500 meters of zigzag to the bottom of the canyon and the «Oasis of Sangalle» where you find camping or basic bungalows and fresh pools. The ideal is to do it over two days to get back in the morning, to the cool. The Canyon network of roads and villages is much more extensive: in 3 to 4 days we offer treks alone with the depths.

Along the canyon, you can ride between the Andean terraces. Or climb to the fortress of Chimpa or Uyo Uyo, ruins of pre-Columbian culture Collagua. Adventurers will opt for the village of Pinchollo and the Hualca Hualca volcano (6,025 meters) and its geysers. The dilettantes will enjoy Chivay, Yanque or Coporaque, which offer accommodations from the base to the luxurious and various hot springs where you can relax.

Folklore richness and secret territories

The Canyon has preserved its authenticity. Traditional clothes embroidered and colored like a fine lace are always proudly worn. Wititi's dance was incorporated into UNESCO's intangible heritage last December. There is nothing wrong with this parade every morning at 6 a. m. Besides Chivay, more commercial, villages scattered around the Canyon all have a strong identity. Coup de coeur for Sibayo or Rumillacta in quechua (the stone village) and its stay in the inhabitant.

Fans of virgin territories also have an embarrassment of choice. About twenty kilometers from Chivay hides Mount Mismi. At the foot of its 5,597 meters is the source of the largest river in the world: the Amazon. There were shipments in 2000 and the specialized agencies proposed it.

Not to mention the Cotahuasi Canyon, at one night's journey, but 100 meters deeper than its famous rival: 3,535 meters and the same Andean terraces, thermal baths, stone forest, waterfalls and condors. Unlike the Colca, you'll be there alone. Ideal for those who like to return a different postcard from their trips.

 

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When is it? Arequipa is located in southern Sierra Peru and enjoys a temperate climate. From January to late March, watch for frequent rains. Better period: from May to August, cold at night but an intense blue sky the day.

 

Go there. Arequipa is near the southern tip of Peru. By bus, take about 6 p. m. from Lima the capital. Or 1:30 a. m. by plane.

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