Things to see and do South Coast

Inscribed on the List of the cultural heritage of the Humanity since 1994, this archaeological complex, formed by an immense network of lines and drawings of animals and plants attributed to the Nazca culture, but of which we do not know much, is mysterious to say the least... These lines, which cover a surface of some 350 km², were discovered by Paul Kosok in 1939. They were then studied by Hans Horkheimer and Maria Reiche, the latter having devoted the last 50 years of her life to them.

We can see some figures to the km 420 of the Panamericana, to 25 km of Nazca, from the top of a mirador of 12 m of height (S/ 2 the access): a hand, a lizard and a tree. One distinguishes clearly the figures, but one does not catch the amplitude of the accomplished work. Also a mirador in Palpa (S/ 2 the access).

By plane, you can see the whole area for 30 minutes (prefer early morning departures for less waiting at the airport and because it is often too windy in the afternoon for the planes to take off). The main companies have planes for four to seven passengers that can reach speeds of up to 220 km/hour. Beware, it's a bumpy ride! Don't plan to have a big breakfast before taking off... Also be aware that the French Embassy advises against flying over the lines while waiting for the implementation of safety measures since the accidents of 2008 and 2010 and recently in February 2022.

Some overflights (longer) also pass over the Palpa lines, new figures discovered a short time ago.

A two-hour excursion, which leaves in the morning from the port of El Chaco. The boats leave in the morning at 8am, before the fog sets in, and offer fairly standard tours with between 10 and 35 passengers on board and a guide who speaks Spanish and English. Second departure at 10am, only in summer season. You leave for the Ballestas, these islands which are funny ochre rock formations and shelter a diversified marine fauna: there are many colonies of birds such as the "zarzillo" (a kind of seagull), the "chuita" (red-legged cormorant), the pelican and the famous "piquero peruano" the one that produces guano - a fertilizer of capital importance for Peru which markets it -, but also many seals, sea lions and dolphins, and only a few specimens of Peruvian penguins, known as Humboldt's penguins, which are on the way to extinction. On the way, we come across a strange figure engraved on a hill, visible only from the sea: el Candelabro. This imposing geoglyph, 128 m long and 78 m wide, engraved in a sand dune, revives, as for the Nazca lines, the speculations on its meaning. Is it a drawing of a cactus, a venerated plant, or a sign to guide navigators? This remains a mystery.

It is not possible to go down to the islands (only people who collect guano are allowed), but we get very close to the beaches and rocks where the sea lions laze and bask, it is the highlight of the show.

South of Paracas begins the 335,000 hectare nature reserve, with its deserted beaches where lizards, flamingos, dolphins and sea lions can be seen. Wild camping is possible, provided that you bring food and drink.

Further on, we could observe a monumental rocky concretion, a bird's paradise, called the Catedral, but it was destroyed by the earthquake of 2007. We still pass by it and from the viewpoint we can see the beautiful grey sandy beach on the left.

The playa Roja with its red sand is just as photogenic. For swimming the calm waters of the Mina are perfect, dolphins sometimes come to greet you, beware the page is small and the influx is numerous at the end of the week.

The tours often stop at the small port of Lagunillas, go and have lunch in the most recommended "El Che" hut. You can also climb a small mirador to have a view on this small bay and its fishing boats.

To visit it: By organized tour in taxi or minibus (between S/ 25 and 80 for 2 or 3 hours of visit). However, we advise you to rent a mountain bike (S/ 30 for a day without a guide, count 7 hours) or a scooter (S/ 100): be careful, it can be very hot, in this case we advise you to stay in the sector La Roja-Lagunillas and La Mina. Or explore it by quad (S/ 80 for 2 hours in a group, one pilot + one passenger behind a lead quad).

In the Museo de Sitio Julio C. Tello de Paracas (at the checkpoint of the Reserva, free entrance), we learn that if the Peruvian coasts represent only 0.1% of the world's coastline, they nevertheless host 10% of the underwater wealth!

We also discover the beautiful site plucked from the sands of oblivion in 1927 by Julio C. Tello, who revealed the funerary textiles (superimposed bands of cotton which surrounded the dead and protected them from moisture) of the Paracas and Nazca cultures. This museum traces the evolution of these civilizations from 200 to 700 AD through 120 archaeological pieces. It also includes the necropolis of "Cabezas Largas", dating from 500 BC (the men of the Paracas civilization had their skulls stretched from birth), where most of the mummies of the Museo Larco Herrera of Lima come from.

If you stop at the Interpretation Center, don't miss the beach on the right at the end of a long path where pink flamingos are the most numerous to welcome you.

The playa Boca del Río, located between the port and Pueblo Nuevo, is a long stretch of sand where small fishing boats dock. Eight kilometers to the south, the playa Pozo de Lizas, unfortunately close to the barracks, is a stretch of fine white sand suitable for sunbathing, while the playa Tacona is more reserved for sport fishing enthusiasts. To the north, the playa Jaboncillo is the most populated; further on, the playa Enfermeras seems to be the most quiet, sheltered by rocks. At 24 km, the playa Alastaya, with its pebbles, is the beach of the clovisses.

These petroglyphs are located about 30 minutes from Tacna and are quite scattered, but the landscape is nice. Located in the San Francisco desert, to get there, you cross a 65 meter long suspension bridge. The organized tours from Tacna, usually include: a visit to the city center, the petroglyphs, a pisco tasting and finally a stop at the hot baths (shared pool S/ 8 and private bath S/ 10). This is the easiest and cheapest way to see everything in half a day.

It is the highest dune on the continent! Its white mass, culminating at 2,080 m above ocean level, can be seen from all points of the plain. You can make there, just like in Huacachina, of the sandboard. Organized excursion with buggy and sandboard for about 70 US$ the day. Be careful : count 3 hours to reach the top. Today it is possible to undertake a buggy excursion to the Duna la Marcha or the Desierto de Usaka - contact Alegria Tours (45 US$ for a 4 hour tour ✆ +51 956 640 619 - alegriatoursperu.com).

If there is a sport that you don't think about when you go to Peru, it is this one. But the sandy desert around the oasis lends itself well to it! The expedition is done in a buggy: the descents and the ascents in these uneven expanses of innumerable dunes already provoke strong emotions. Then, at the top of a "wall" of sand, we put on a wooden board. If the fear is less than the one experienced at the top of a snow wall, the technique is not simple. After a few runs, you will look like a sandman, you just have to master the speed.

At 20 km from Moquegua, a surprising mountain, with a flat top like the mesas of Arizona. The Cochunas had installed a fortress there in which they resisted 55 days to the siege of the Incas of Mayta Capác, before giving in, starving. Climbing the 600 m difference in altitude (2,600 m), by a steep path, is a very feasible exercise and will take you about 1 hour. At the top, there is a panoramic view of the plain and the foothills of the Cordillera. The summits of Cerro Baúl and Cerro Mejia are adjacent. Terraces on the side of the mountains and channels of the Huari period.