Obviously Burgundian dishes!
No need to have already visited the Côte d'Or (and more generally Burgundy) to know some of its beautiful specialties. And for good reason: their names alone already clearly announce the color. This is the case of the traditional Burgundian beef and the famous Burgundy snails appreciated here since... prehistoric times! Their size is particular (larger than most other species), and they are most often served in their shells with a parsley butter. But there are many variations that can be found on restaurant menus and in the stalls of local producers. The potée bourguignonne, derived from the traditional potée, uses only local products. But, next to these dishes and meats that carry their origins like a banner, remains a surprising exception: the Burgundian fondue. Contrary to appearances, it was not born here at all, but... in Switzerland! It is indeed to a restaurant owner from Lausanne that we owe this invention in 1948. If he called it that, it's because his original recipe called for Charolais meat (from the neighboring Saône-et-Loire) accompanied by red wines from the prestigious Côte des Grands Crus.
On the menu, great classics
In the kitchens, other specialties are unavoidable. Like the emblematic marbled ham which originated near Dijon where it was already served during Easter celebrations in the 14th century. Close to the head cheese, this traditional delicatessen is made from ham and pork shoulder, finely sliced and coated with marbled jelly, then cooked in a white wine and mustard broth (from Burgundy of course!). As for the Burgundy truffles, they have become over the years a very popular product for consumers as well as restaurateurs who are increasingly including them on their menus. Many actors work here for its promotion, in particular the Confrérie de la Truffe de Bourgogne of Is-sur-Tille. In this small town located about 20 kilometers north of Dijon, texts dating back to the 14th century describe it as one of the main dishes of royal kitchens. But many villages in the department also have truffle sites, and many producers are involved in this activity. In Bure-les-Templiers, the association La Truffe côte-d'orienne(www.truffe-bourgogne.fr) is the relay of the Syndicat des Producteurs de Truffes de la Côte-d'Or which federates the organization of the sector. In addition, some private actors passionate about this black diamond offer a very interesting discovery. Like La Maison aux Mille truffes by l'Or des Valois in Marey-lès-Fussey, near Nuits-Saint-Georges.
Is that all? Of course not! If there is one dish that is particularly appreciated here, it is the eggs en meurette: poached eggs served in a sauce made of red wine, lardons, onions and shallots cooked in butter. To all this, let's add the numerous starters and dishes based on Epoisses. The most famous of the Burgundian cheeses, AOC since 1991, is a cow's milk cheese matured in Burgundy marc. Its orange color, its particular perfume, its unctuous and soft consistency are not to be presented anymore. The court of Louis XIV swore by it! What about fish? The Saône, an important navigable river in the Côte d'Or, is also one of the richest rivers in Europe for fish. Trout, pike or pike-perch bring all their flavors to many dishes, such as the pôchouse (or pauchouse): a traditional recipe which associates fish with lean flesh (pike, perch) and fish with fatty flesh (eel, tench) to which one adds thyme, a lot of garlic (5 to 6 cloves), coarse salt, the whole sprinkled with a white wine aligoté. The pôchouse is mainly eaten in the Saône Valley up to Franche-Comté. A very local specialty, therefore. As is also the Morvan cuisine and its famous sausages that can be found near Saulieu. Or like the one called "côte vineuse", which extends from the Côte-d'Or to the Saône-et-Loire. There, coq au chambertin (or more generally with wine) and pavé bourguignon are often served. Not to mention the gaudes: a preparation made of corn flour mixed with milk, to be eaten sweet or savory. Not very expensive, gaudes were for centuries a staple food for the peasant families of Bresse, Haut-Jura, and Côte-d'Or.
The incredible story of the Gaston Gérard chicken
A great classic of Dijon cuisine, Gaston Gérard chicken is a dish made with chicken, white wine, fresh cream, mustard, grated comté cheese and paprika. A recipe conceived in 1930 by Reine Geneviève Bourgogne, wife of the Dijon politician Gaston Gérard (1978-1969). The man was undersecretary of state under the Third Republic, and the very first member of the government to have been in charge of tourism. Mayor of Dijon from 1919 to 1935, deputy of Côte d'Or in the 30's, Gérard worked to build the gastronomic reputation of his city throughout his mandates. He gave more than 600 conferences in 32 countries to promote Burgundy and Dijon in particular. In 1921, he also founded the Federation of Burgundy Tourist Offices and the Dijon Gastronomic Fair. But let us return to the chicken that bears his name. In truth, this creation was born (like many others) from a simple accident. On this day in 1930, while preparing a chicken in her own way, Reine Geneviève Bourgogne spilled a jar of paprika in her preparation. To try to "save" her dish, she decided to add white wine, fresh cream and grated Comté cheese. The recipe is such a success that their guest of the day (a famous food critic at the time) congratulates her... and immediately names the recipe after his host! Since then, Gaston Gérard's chicken has become a staple of Burgundian gastronomy.
Desserts and drinks: a wide choice!
It remains to conclude our meal with some sweet treats. You will often be offered a tasty pear poached in red wine, a peach pie (from here or from Saône-et-Loire), or many desserts and ice creams sprinkled with Dijon blackcurrant coulis. Finally, to open, accompany and close your meals, apart from wines and crémants, in your glasses you will have the choice between the famous marc de Bourgogne (a brandy elaborated with the residues of pressing of the grape and which is drunk as a digestive), the ratafia (a mixture of grape juice, must and marc, to be served rather as an aperitif), or the many local beers. But the star here is of course the kir. Served since the 19th century in the gargotes where blackcurrant was used to make poor quality wine drinkable, this aperitif composed of blackcurrant liqueur (1/3) and white wine (often an aligoté) became the prerogative of local politicians who elevated it to the rank of official drink at their banquets. After the war, Canon Kir (1876-1968) - priest and deputy mayor of Dijon for 22 years - took over the recipe, going so far as to sign an exclusive contract with a liqueur producer. This cocktail then took his name, and even entered the dictionary of common names of the Petit Larousse in 1976. The kir is to be tasted with the famous gougères of Burgundy: a pastry with Comté or Gruyère cheese totally inescapable in the 4 corners of Burgundy.
A multi-starred region
As proof of a particularly inventive cuisine, the Côte d'Or has 15 starred restaurants. On the 3-star side, the Maison Lameloise in Chagny. For the 2 stars, there are 2: William Frachot at the Hostellerie du Chapeau Rouge in Dijon and Patrick Bertron for the Relais Bernard Loiseau in Saulieu. The 1 star ? In Dijon, Cibo - run by Angelo Ferrigno - obtained its first star in 2021. Also in Dijon, Keigo Kimura at the head of L'Aspérule, and Louis-Philippe Vigilant at Loiseau des Ducs. In Pernand-Vergelesses, Jordan Prot at the helm of Charlemagne. Keishi Sugimura and Christophe Quéant, respectively at Bénaton and Carmin, in Beaune. In Chassagne-Montrachet, Émilie Rey and Édouard Mignot at the kitchens of Ed Em. At Château de Courban, Takashi Kinoshita, and Thomas Collomb at La Table d'Hôtes de la Rôtisserie du Chambertin in Gevrey-Chambertin. Let's not forget Philippe Augé and his Table de Levernois in Levernois, Nicolas Isnard, at the Auberge de la Charme in Prenois, and the latest award winner Tomofumi Uchimura at the restaurant Origine in Dijon.
100% Côte d'Or know-how
Beyond restaurant menus and local cuisines, let's also salute the many small producers who participate in the gastronomic reputation of the Côte-d'Or (and all of Burgundy). Launched in 2019 by the Departmental Council, the label "Savoir Faire 100% Côte-d'Or" aims to give more visibility to Côte-d'Or producers and breeders. A true guarantee of quality, this label is intended to respect the entire industry, from the producer to the consumer, including the environment. Among the products highlighted are Côte d'Or bread (a C-shaped baguette) and Côte d'Or cheese (a small, creamy cheese, a mixture of chaource, langres and soumaintrain). As for the wines, the Bourgogne Côte-d'Or appellation is based on a well-defined production area (36 communes in Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, and 4 communes in Saône-et-Loire).
Dijon, European capital of gastronomy
Since its creation in 1921, the Dijon International and Gastronomic Fair has become theleading economic and popular event in Burgundy and the5th largest international fair in France. Every year, towards the end of October, it brings together nearly 600 exhibitors and some 200,000 visitors. But that's not all: to further establish its status as the regional gastronomic capital, Dijon has added an International City of Gastronomy and Wine. With an estimated investment of 250 million euros, this project has now been completed and is putting Dijon and the whole of Burgundy on the international map. The Cité is located just a stone's throw from the city center, at kilometer 0 of the Route des Grands Crus, in place of the former general hospital. With a surface area of 22,000m2 and a site of 6.5 hectares, it has already welcomed thousands of visitors. The prestigious Ferrandi school trains more than a hundred young people from all over the world in French gastronomy. A 4-star hotel and 2 cinemas have been built in the city, as well as exhibition spaces, a conference center, the wine school and the Climats chapel. A must-see!
