Things to see and do Turtle Coast

It is one of the most famous wadis of the sultanate for its superb freshwater basins of a beautiful emerald. As always, you are advised to take precautions before venturing out. Don't venture out without a sun hat, sun cream and of course water, as the heat can be overwhelming; and above all, check the weather forecast to make sure that no thunderstorms are expected that day, as the risks of flooding and drowning are real in the wadis. To access the more remote pools, you must first swim across the arm of the river or simply go by boat. Some kids propose this crossing of a few meters. Opposite, a dirt path drowned in palm trees leads to the heart of the wadi along the river. Very quickly, the water disappears and we find ourselves walking on the rock, between mountains with steep walls. Big boulders and touches of greenery: a wild and rather masterful environment, especially when the water shows up again, in the form of punctual basins of incredible green! The most beautiful ones are at the bottom, about 40 minutes walk away on a pseudo path that one loses and finds again at random luck (but, impossible to get lost, since one is so to speak "stuck" in the dry river bed). After about 20 minutes, keep to the right and go up a few meters overhanging following the cliff face and in particular a black pipeline. The path goes down naturally and you must then walk until you spot some abandoned stone constructions, a little higher up, on the left. Further on, there are several pools lined with small pebble or coarse sand beaches: an idyllic setting to spend a few hours. The highlight of the walk is there. It's not really a secret: in informed circles, we all talk about "the famous wadi Shab cave". But still, if you don't know, you can't find it! It is by swimming to get there, following the pools to the bottom, where the mountain forms a sort of cul-de-sac. Slightly on the left, a corridor of a few meters offers itself as a notch, which allows only the passage of the head (the rest of the body remains immersed, which allows to progress while swimming). One enters it with a little apprehension, with one's eyes riveted on the light, at the bottom. Suddenly, the reward is there: an open-air cave into which an adorable waterfall falls! A basin of a few meters in diameter, but abyssally deep, set in its rocky setting.

Much wider than its neighbour the Wadi Shab, the Wadi Tiwi allows you to drive there. It can be reached by a recent road, then by a track that runs along the river through the plantations of date palms, banana and fig trees. It is important to be very careful while driving, as some passages are quite brittle or narrow. A driver who does not feel comfortable with his off-road vehicle will have to make do with the access road, which is flat and well paved. On a regular basis, it is possible to park your car on the side for a swimming break - opt for a discreet spot, as the locals are not used to seeing European women in swimsuits, although this is tolerated. If you like walking, you can also discover the wadi on foot, as you explore the hamlets and terraced fields surrounded by low walls specific to Tiwi, also known as "the gorges of the nine villages". To visit all the hamlets, count one or two days on foot depending on the pace adopted or several hours by car.

The increasingly steep and narrow mountain road goes down 36 kilometres into the wadi and reaches the very last village of Mybam: the wadi citadel, perched at an altitude of 800 metres. The complex, consisting of mud and stone houses and defensive constructions built on a rocky outcrop, is fairly well preserved.

On the way, about 20 km from the entrance to the wadi, you can stop at the sign indicating the start of the hike to the very picturesque village of Saymah (about 1h30 round trip). Clinging to the side of the Bani Jabir djebel, this one conceals an old defensive round tower also used as a grain silo.

Several beautiful natural pools decorate the wadi. From the small village of Umq Bir there is a superb aquatic canyon 6 kilometres long, with numerous pools and long pools to swim in. Lasting about 7 hours, this canyoning is spectacular and is for experienced and enduring people accompanied by a guide (www.omantrekkingguides.com).

For experienced hikers who are willing to be self-sufficient for three days, there is also the ultimate opportunity to link Wadi Tiwi to Wadi Bani Khaleed via the Hallut Plateau. This is a good level hike that can only be done in the company of a mountain guide who knows the area well. It offers a beautiful panorama of the Arabian Sea and the entire coast from a rocky balcony at an altitude of 1,900 metres.

Sur and Al Ayjah are separated by the maritime canal that feeds the waters of the lagoon. For centuries, dhows have been coming in and out, sailors have been embarking, workers have been carving the horseshoe sterns. In order to cross, one needed a boat or to go around the bottom of the lagoon, which is about ten kilometres long. But the State, which in Oman you have noticed does not count for road infrastructure works, decided in 2010 to offer Sur the first suspension bridge in the country. To approach Ayjah, walkers are advised, if the weather is suitable, to leave the vehicle on the Sur side and cross, on foot, this magnificent 204-metre long structure. After investigation, its architects are, unsurprisingly, the Germans of Schlaich-Bergermann, world leaders in suspended span structures, authors notably of numerous stadiums for the football world cup in South Africa, but also of the Mont Saint-Michel pedestrian footbridge project. At the end of the bridge, go to the left to quickly reach the small whitewashed fort located in the centre of the village (Al Hamooda Fort, open from Sunday to Thursday from 8.30 am to 2.30 pm, entrance 500 bz). Then, we recommend a stroll in freedom and according to your desires, passing by the banks of the lagoon and going up to the lighthouse for a superb view of the unbelievably coloured waters. The calm and old-fashioned atmosphere of the village contrasts with the liveliness and the overall style of the town of Sur just opposite, which is the interest of the place.

But why this long-isolated, bearded town? And why this very different architectural development? Historians tell us that Al Ayjah, like Al Ashkhara a little further south, is a Wahhabi land, which is extremely rare in Oman. Thus, in 1928, the rebel sheikhs of Beni Bu Ali established an independent customs post here and raised a flag to mark their sovereignty. They adopted the rule of Wahhabi Sunnism in the Saudi style, as did the Qataris a little later in the Gulf. The affair, of course, was not to the liking of the Sultan, who asked the British for help in bringing the restless into line - an arm wrestling that lasted 24 months. The revolutionaries are a distant memory, but religious rigorism is still present in this specific part of the city, which explains the systematic presence of the facial veil among women. Therefore, ladies, please do not visit the city in Ibizan dress.

It's white as a spark, set with little cliffs. Blue green, the water is sublime. At 1h15 from Muscat and 30 minutes from Sur, here is a nice beach in the sun! The weekend, the place is taken by storm, prefer the week. On the motorway, nothing is indicated and many travellers will just hear about it and confuse it with the pebble beaches further away. At Fins, white sand dominates even if clear pebbles also partially cover the beach). A piece of advice, keep a close eye on the coastal towns on the map.

Even though Sur now only produces one or two dhows a year, Indian workers here repair the famous boats that have made the reputation and prosperity of the city since the first millennium BC. The two most popular models at that time were the baggala and the ghanja. Today, the tradition continues in the rules of art, and the ghanjas, smaller sailing boats, are still built according to ancestral methods, caulking being done with shark fat and plaster. Electrical instruments are used to cut the dhows, which six workers manage to complete in 5 months at an average cost of 40,000 OMR. The shipyards also produce Sharks, slender wooden boats that can be rowed like skiffs or outriggers. Specific to Sur, these boats are used every year in February, on Special Day, for extremely popular races. If you continue along the road along the lagoon, you will see a magnificent example of a dhow built in Sur more than seventy years ago, which has now emerged from the water and is erected on the ground like a statue or rather a museum witness of the past: the Fatah al-Khair. If it is not possible to get on board to visit the interior, it is interesting to approach the sides of the boat to observe the finishing touches. Traditionally, ships were made by hand, without nails, and hand-woven ropes were used to strengthen the joints.

Some moments, during the journey, are immediately precious, certified unforgettable. On this island, made far away by the brisk slowness of its ferry, half a thousand kilometres from the capital and as if light years away from the present time, here is one of these rare moments. They do not appear on any catalogue of approved tour operators, are not signposted, let alone listed in the guides. They are a precipitate of simple nature at the birth of the world, a wild shock. There are two solutions: you can either sleep in a hotel 13 km to the north and come here on a day trip, or you can stay overnight and maybe get a chance to see the Loggerhead ladies in the early morning. To bivouac or swim, you may prefer to go down 6 km further south, on the other magnificent beach decorated with a wreck, with the advantage of a narrower sand ribbon making the sea easier to access by car. Travellers are asked to show the utmost respect and a true sense of responsibility so as not to disrupt the egg-laying process and lead to a premature return to the sea: do not walk anywhere at night on the beaches where turtles breed (risk of crushing the young or cutting off reptiles), do not shine flashlights or use flashes, do not speak untimely, do not encircle the animals or try to approach them. Overall: remain discreet, keep your distance and do not touch anything.

The turtle reserve covers a land and sea area of 120 km², including 45 km of coastline. The two guided tours, organized around 9 p.m. and 5 a.m., last around two hours each, including some scientific information, safety instructions, the 20-minute round-trip walk in the dark to reach the nesting area, and the observation time itself, in groups of no more than 20 people (which is already a lot, especially as other groups criss-cross the same beach, moving from one scene to another). These visits are the same as those included in the accommodation package for those who have booked a room on site, who benefit from priority over other guests and a shorter waiting time. This is an advantage, particularly for the early-morning outing, as in the latter case, the guides only wake visitors if turtles have been spotted. Guests staying outside the reserve must arrive at the center 30 minutes beforehand and register in advance.

The best season is from May to September, during the warmer months. But turtles can be seen all year round, several hundred at a time in July - the month favoured by true enthusiasts - and sometimes just one or two a day in the off-season.

Whether you're a wildlife enthusiast or not, the sight of these sacred monsters is an unforgettable spectacle. A lesson in eternity which, when the site isn't packed with groups (which is unfortunately increasingly the case), is heightened by the slightly strange atmosphere of the place and the experience. Maybe it's because you're going to the beach at night, the waves are lapping against ghostly-looking rocks, and you have to be quiet and walk with care, as if entering a sacred place. And when the phosphorescent plankton is hatching, each wave deposits thousands of fireflies on the sand, and the turtles use this path of light to return to the ocean, then, frankly, it's an emotional experience!

To complete the visit, we recommend a visit to the small museum set up in the visitor center, which is well designed and interactive for children. It is divided into 2 sections: one dedicated to the different species of turtle in the region and the fight against their extinction; the other to the archaeological explorations undertaken in the area since 1982, following the accidental discovery of a fragment of pottery dating from the Bronze Age - you can see copper and ceramic objects, jewelry, maps, models...

During the day, free, unguided access to the beach is only permitted from 8am to 1.30pm and only on foot, not to contemplate the turtles that remain in the sea, but to see the holes dug by them, and the traces left by their fins in the sand. Rest assured: the risk of stepping on eggs is reduced to a minimum, as they are sunk at least 50 centimetres into the ground. But digging is of course forbidden, as is picnicking. Beyond its scientific interest, the beach is a pleasant place to stroll and relax. You can go for a swim, taking care not to stray too far from the shore, as currents can be strong. In midsummer, it is not advisable to venture out to sea because of the swell.

The Hawiyat Najam Park is home to a curious natural round-shaped abyss, about 20 metres deep and 40 metres wide. It is fed underground by water from the mountains, but also from the nearby sea. Its exact origin is not known, but is believed to be the result of the combined action of water and erosion, although the ancients like to say that the hole was dug by the fall of a piece of star. A staircase goes down to the heart of the abyss and makes it possible to bathe in limpid salt water.

Built on an elevation overlooking the entire Bay of Sur, this fortified castle was built 350 years ago during the reign of Nasir bin Murshid Al Ya'rubi, the iman who drove the Portuguese out of the area in 1648. The architecture is simple: a square flanked by four towers. One can observe the old foundations left uncovered as well as the entrance door made of sidr wood, the jujube tree that provides the thorns of the Holy Crown. The visit is fairly quick, but it is worth the trip for the view from the parapet walk.

On a hillock stand the remains of the mausoleum of Bibi Maryam, a holy woman. These are the best preserved of the ancient medieval port of Qalhat. Inside the mausoleum are four niches that were originally framed with rich Qashani earthenware tiles imported from Persia. It was also to include a mosque, described by the explorer Ibn Battuta as "very beautiful". According to the legend, only this monument resisted the earthquake that razed the city to the ground. The site became a place of pilgrimage before being classified by Unesco and closed to the public.

At the eastern end of the Sultanate, Cape Town Fort is a balcony to the world. In the 11th and 12th centuries, we were there in one of the most important maritime and commercial squares of the coast as Sohar was slipping into decadence and Qalhat had not yet taken over. Built in the 16th century and restored in 1989, the citadel has three imposing towers, including the western one named after Sindbad, the legendary sailor. The interior of the fort is empty, but from the main tower, the view of the city, the sea and the lagoons is very beautiful.

The fort was built inland, probably in the very early nineteenth century under Sayyid Said Bin Sultan, to provide protection against attacks from inland tribes. It consists of a vast inner courtyard, flanked by four massive towers, one of which is topped by an unusually slender tower, slender as a chimney. A whole small neighbourhood has been built up in the vicinity, which adds to the interest of the visit, if you find the door open. The complex housed the wali's administration until 1976.

Built in the 19th century to defend the city of Qurayyat and guarded by two old Portuguese made cannons, the fort stands next to the souk, along the main road that runs through the city. Recently restored, it is typical of the defensive structures along the coast of Oman, with high crenellated walls and a round watchtower. Kitchen, living rooms, objects, everything is in its place, and allows us to imagine the life of the inhabitants of the past. Notice the beauty of the front door or the containers coming from China, and the "made in Zanzibar" chest.

It is the local "croisette" where you can stroll in the mild hours if you sleep on the spot. The place runs along the beach and comes alive especially at the end of the day, when the football players take the sand by storm and the fishermen come to sell their catches. The cornice is then enlivened by a beautiful effervescence, very local and essentially masculine. At high tide, as you approach the port, you can watch the ballet of fishing boats and dhows coming in and out. Little advice to these ladies: as always, wear covering clothes.

The dam on the still-watering Dayqah wadi is the largest in the sultanate, forming Oman's largest artificial lake, with a superb color ranging from blue to emerald. It was built to supply the cities of Muscat and Quriyat and stores 100 million^m3 of water. Well-known to Omanis, who like to spend days or weekends here with their families, the area, encircled by brown mountains, is well equipped for leisure activities (camping, activity center, etc.). To appreciate the beauty of the site, walk to the top of the dam wall.

Lined with terraced plantations and smooth, polished rocks, this oasis is constantly filled with water and offers a succession of pools wedged between two cliffs: a spot for swimming! Muscat's residents make no mistake and regularly come here to bask at weekends. Thanks to their orientation, the canyon's walls provide shade where it's good to rest or hike for a few hours - a footpath along the old caravan route that linked the port of Qurayyat to the interior.

Its name alone makes you dream, and means "the gathering place of geniuses" (the ones with the lamp, not the nerds ;). Gigantic and spectacular, it's one of the 10 largest caves in the world - see the photos posted on the web to get an idea of the immensity of the chasm! Located on the Selma Plateau, it was discovered by Americans Cheryl Jones and her husband Don Davidson during aerial exploration.

Since then, this geological wonder has been a fascinating playground for caving and climbing enthusiasts - those who are used to the sport, of course, and even those who are, will do well to enlist the services of a local guide. The impressive descent is by rope. Once at the bottom, the tunnels and caves offer plenty of places to explore with suitable equipment. The main underground chamber is a masterly 347 metres long by 245 metres wide, with a total height of 120 metres. There are three entrances at the top of the chamber, which, once at the bottom, project as many halos of light into the cavity.

Local legend has it that the cave was originally inhabited by a woman named Selma who, for some unknown reason, provoked the wrath of an enormous one-eyed genie. As he chased her across the plateau, he tried to kill her by hurling powerful lightning bolts at her. Luckily, the genie's eyesight was poor, and three of these bolts of lightning were lost, fracturing the rock of the plateau in three places and opening up three entrances to the cavern...

In calm weather, this wild and secluded beach is a great spot for both swimming and camping. Embedded between two cliffs, the clear sand is bordered by an emerald sea with translucent water, which make up an idyllic landscape for a few hours of idleness away from the city or an overnight stay in the open air during a road trip to or from Ras al-Jinz for example. In windy weather, a swell forms and the bay becomes capricious - avoid swimming. Access is easy from Sur if you always follow the road closest to the sea.