In the south of the Japanese island of Shikoku, nestled between the mountains and the coastline, is Kochi Prefecture, a beautiful rural region with remarkable natural assets. Mountainous terrain, rivers and Pacific beaches make up the panorama of the region. In the heart of this prefecture are the eponymous capital and the village of Nakatosa, both worthy representatives of the local culinary traditions.
History at the service of the table
The rich history of these two cities has allowed the culinary traditions to be built and anchored in the daily life of the inhabitants. For centuries, the mountains were a natural barrier, and only the sea routes were developed. The city of Kochi grew up at the bottom of the Urado Bay, which enjoys a warm and humid, almost tropical climate. Kochi was what is called a jokamachi, a castle town. Built in 1603 on the order of Yamauchi Kazutoyo, the lord of the domain, the castle served the province of Tosa. Notably, Kochi Castle is the only castle in Japan whose main building structures have been preserved, standing proudly since the Edo period in 1753. Fifteen structures of the castle have been designated by Japan as important cultural properties. As for Nakatosa's past, it is closely related to the village's port. The port of Nakatosa, called Kure, has played a major role in the history of the region since the 13th century. The location of Kure and its maritime activities, as well as the timber merchants, who prospered thanks to the nearby mountains, allowed Nakatosa to develop. Nowadays, the daily life in Nakatosa is still punctuated by the bonito. Many inhabitants work closely or remotely with it, whether it is the fishermen, the employees of the village market or the various suppliers. It is said that only typhoons prevent the inhabitants from tasting fresh Katsuo (editor's note: bonito) every day. The larger boats go out to sea for a long time, but the smaller boats leave in the early morning and return in the early afternoon. The Kure Taishomachi market comes to life then, in a most friendly and exotic atmosphere.
Bonito at the center of attention
Although it is difficult to date the beginning of bonito fishing with accuracy, some ancient documents mention it precisely. The province of Tosa, formerly Kochi, was designated by the Emperor's government at that time as the import area for Katsuo, of which Kure was a part. It took 25 days by boat to reach the ancient capital of Kyoto. The fish, which could not arrive fresh, was then simmered to make soup and the flesh was dried. Bonito, a migratory fish, returns to Tosa Bay twice a year: in spring and in autumn thanks to the Kuroshio sea current. Since the Edo period, the local people have been fishing with a giant wooden rod called ipponzuri, a sustainable technique using live sardines. For centuries, Katsuo bonito has been an essential product of Tosa province and Japanese gastronomy. It is thanks to this ancestral fishing that the katsuobushi (dried and smoked bonito) method was born. The master of Japanese print Hiroshige Utagawa was even inspired by it for one of the works of his series "Views of the famous sites of the sixty and some provinces of Japan".
Okyaku and Sawachi on the menu
The inhabitants of the region have a taste for celebration, hospitality and gastronomy. This sweet marriage gives birth to what is called okyaku here. This term in the Japanese language literally means "guest", but in the region, the meaning is quite different. By okyaku, we mean rather the festival, the gathering. To say then that the inhabitants of Kochi deeply love the party is not an understatement. This pleasure of gathering is anchored in the culture of the prefecture. Every event is an occasion for celebration. This communicative conviviality extends to the guests of these gatherings, hence the ambiguity of the word okyaku, even if the two terms are closely linked. During these festivities, gastronomy holds a very important place and a cuisine called sawachi is served. This specialty of Kochi, which dates back to the feudal era, hence the link with history, is part of the traditional culinary landscape of the region. The sawachi ryori consists of serving various foods on a large plate, such as sashimi, bonito tataki, sushi, somen noodles, steamed sea bream or inaka-sushi (vegetable sushi) and fruit. When you see the opulence of the ingredients beautifully presented in these dishes, you can better understand the concept of okyaku
This cuisine, as one can imagine, is time consuming and requires a certain organization. Traditionally, men are in charge of preparing the fish and women of cooking it. But it is also a family affair. All members must participate, whether in the kitchen, during the service or at the end, when the task of washing the dishes becomes unavoidable. The style of cooking, which is oriented towards sharing and abundance, fits perfectly with the idea of gathering and celebration. Family, friends, colleagues or even strangers met during the festivities, all are invited to participate. From morning to night, the party is in full swing.
A history of cooking
Bonito being an integral part of the culinary landscape of the province of Tosa, and thus of the village of Nakatosa, it is normal, therefore, to find it under the spotlight during an okyaku where sawachi cooking is king. Here, we prefer to cook it in tataki, a cooking technique that suits it like a glove, but which has been imposed throughout the history of the region. In ancient times, when it was impossible to keep the bonito fresh for a long time, the Japanese used to beat it with salt, tataku meaning to beat, beat or beat. In the Edo period, Katsuo was eaten as sashimi, but an epidemic is said to have prompted the governor of the province to prohibit such meals. The inhabitants, who accepted this order, then found a way to keep the taste of the raw meat: to tap the bonito with salt, grilling it on the surface over a high heat and thus avoiding cooking the meat through. The boats were equipped with a stove to cook the meals. But Katsuo, freshly caught, has a very thick flesh which is not recommended for sashimi. That is why fishermen used to grill it. In order to keep the flesh cooked to the core, it was necessary to use a high fire and the fishermen knew how to obtain it. This is how the tataki cooking technique that is used for sawachi ryori was born. It is said, unequivocally, that this is the best way to enjoy this fish
The inseparable sake
The region's waterways and quality rice could only go well together. The essence of sake making is, as we recall, water, rice and koji (malted rice). Let us also note the kobo, the yeast used in the process. The quality of the water is important to determine the flavor of the drink. This is why the quality of the water in the region is one of the keys, if not the key, to the great popularity of Kochi sake. So there are high quality sakes that are the pride of the prefecture. The breweries located in the mountains draw crystal clear water from the Shimanto and Niyodo rivers, while the breweries along the coast take desalinated sea water loaded with minerals. The prefecture boasts 19 sake breweries, including the Nishioka Brewery, which dates back to 1781 in Nakatosa. This brewery is the oldest brewery in Kochi Prefecture with its 240 years of history. A visit to this place opens the doors to the history of sake in the region and allows you to taste the best of sake.
The superior quality of Kochi sake has earned it a high reputation among gourmets. And it is easy to guess that sake is a key element of any good okyaku. The inhabitants of the prefecture are known to be seasoned lovers of this national drink, which they enjoy with varying degrees of moderation. And while drinking sake for women in ancient times was considered a negative behavior, it was not so in Kochi. Man or woman, everyone had and has the right to sip sake while enjoying a sawachi ryori. A wide variety of sakes are brewed in Kochi. There are aromas of citrus and orange. Although these sakes are considered dry, the final touch on the palate is sweet, pleasant and delicate. Sake is a perfect complement to local cuisine. Sake-based liqueurs are very popular in Japan today, and drinks made with yuzu, grown in the region, are highly prized for their fragrant and refreshing aroma, an ideal cocktail for beautiful summer days
Sake is a real table staple and is enjoyed in many ways, especially during the most festive okyaku. The inhabitants of Kochi do not hesitate to drink sake in the same container as a sign of friendship, even if this most convivial custom had to suffer in this period of pandemic. Drinking games are also played, such as hashi-ken, a guessing game with chopsticks. This traditional Tosa game is played in pairs. The protagonists have to guess the number of chopsticks hidden in the sleeve of the outstretched arm of the person opposite. The unfortunate (or fortunate) loser must then drink his or her sake
A varied table full of surprises
Tosa cuisine is largely based on seafood, of which katsuo no tataki is a worthy representative. But the local cuisine also has other culinary discoveries not to be missed, such as shūtō, bonito entrails, or saba no sugata-zushi, made from marinated mackerel. This fish is actually commonly eaten in Kochi. It is even caught individually out of the water and placed in a hold before returning to land. The freshness of Kochi mackerel is part of its notoriety. Elsewhere in the archipelago, mackerel is eaten cooked, because of its strong taste. Here in Kochi, mackerel is served as sashimi because of its mild taste. Of course, the mackerel meat can be grilled lightly on the outside like bonito. The culinary discovery does not end here, and moray eels (utsubo) are also tasted in the area. Although the fish itself may be repulsive, because of its scary appearance, its flesh is tender and rich in taste, similar to chicken breast. The moray eel is not often represented on the menus of restaurants in the archipelago. It can, however, be caught all over the country, but its preparation requires time, energy and application, because of the countless bones. The moray eel can be eaten as sashimi, kaarage (fried) or tataki, as always.
The culinary future
The competitive aspect of fishing in the world and the fact that the younger generations are gradually leaving the manual trades and leaving the village represent a real sword of Damocles for Nakatosa. For 20 years now, the quantity of Katsuo caught has been constantly decreasing. For the inhabitants of the village, it is impossible to predict how long this ancestral activity will last. According to them, its end is unfortunately inevitable. This is why, more than ever, they wish to introduce visitors to Nakatosa bonito as a sign of omotenashi, Japanese hospitality. And as far as hospitality is concerned, the inhabitants of the prefecture, Kochi and Nakatosa know how to do it. For the traveler in search of an authentic Japan, with a different atmosphere from the big centers of the country, a stay in Kochi is conducive to a real change of scenery, as much in terms of geography and natural assets of the region as in terms of gastronomy and human contact. Experiencing a real okyaku, with a sawachi type of cuisine accompanied by an excellent regional sake, is one of the memories that deeply mark travel lovers. Embarked in a whirlwind of conviviality and human warmth, one falls under the spell of local traditions. The palate and the spirit are conquered, and you leave the region with a smile on your face.
GOOD TIPS
How to get there
From Tokyo and Osaka airports (Jetstar, Japan Airlines and All Nippon Airways), visitors can fly domestically to Kochi Ryoma airport and take a shuttle bus to Kochi station. If you wish to continue your journey to Nakatosa, a direct train takes you, in one hour, to Tosakure station, in the heart of the village. This train is available for Japan Rail Pass holders. It takes about two hours to reach Nakatosa from the airport
When to come?
To taste Katsuo of Nakatosa, it is recommended to go there in spring and autumn. During these two periods of the year, fishermen go out to sea in Tosa Bay in the early morning. The market stalls are filled with fresh fish as early as 2:00 p.m., thanks to the previous day's fishing. Moreover, these two seasons are simply the most beautiful in Japan with, for the first one, cherry blossoms and, for the other one, the shimmering foliage of the trees.
Visit the shrine
Religion plays an important role for the fishermen of the region, who are very religious. Before each departure for a long period at sea, fishermen baptize their boat with sake, considered as the holy water of Shintoism. When fishing is successful, local fishermen sacrifice ema, wooden votive plates, to thank the gods. It is possible to admire these ancient frames dating from the Edo period in the Kure Hachimangu shrine in Nakatosa
One can see there representations of the Katsuo which populate the Tosa Bay. Concerning the famous pilgrimage route of the 88 temples initiated by Kūkai (774-835) in Shikoku, the traveler visiting Nakatosa will have the pleasure of walking an ancient route of this pilgrimage for about five kilometers, in the heart of the surrounding mountains. A beautiful excursion not to be missed.
Nishioka Brewery
The oldest brewery in Kochi welcomes you in Nakatosa every day from 9am to 4pm. It is located less than five minutes walk from Tosakure station. You have the possibility to taste the sake you are interested in before buying.
Eating
In Nakatosa, go to the Kure Taishomachi market around 2 pm when it starts to come alive. You can enjoy the atmosphere of the past, buy fresh fish and taste it directly on the spot, in tataki or sashimi, accompanied by sake, of course! The immersion is total and the experience is authentic, pleasant and friendly. A real treat.
Lodging
You will have no trouble finding a hotel in Kochi city, except, perhaps, during the festival. There are two possible places to stay in Nakatosa: the modern Kuroshio Honjin ryokan, with its hot baths and view of the bay, and the Shimanto Genryu no Sato with its location in the heart of nature.
The pluses
The warmth of the locals.
Uniqueculinary traditions.
A paradise for seafood and sake aficionados.
An authentic region, off the beaten track.
The minus
The region is not located on a major railway axis.
